
Policies
Green Wood
Customers who buy green wet wood from The Wood Shoppe on Mill Street do so with the understanding that the wood will need to be air dried or kiln dried in order for the wood to not bend or crack.
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Kiln Drying
Customers who buy green wet wood or bring their own wood to dry at The Wood Shoppe on Mill Street will pay a fee to have it put in our Nyle dehumidification kiln or solar kiln and will have to wait for the slab to be kiln dried in order to come pick it up. Time frame to pick up the wood will be an estimate as we cannot predict exactly how long it will take. Situations that can delay kiln drying are, but not limited to thickness of wood, type of wood, overall size of wood, moisture content of wood at start of kiln, final moisture content, maintenance on kiln, repairs on kiln, break downs, weather, employee availability and break down of equipment to load and unload kiln.
If the kiln takes longer to dry than originally estimated The Wood Shoppe on Mill Street will evaluate a percentage off the final price. No full refunds will be given as there are costs involved including employee labour, equipment use, restocking, electricity costs and use of space.
The Wood Shoppe on Mill Street will make every effort to make you aware of any delays in drying time.
The Wood Shoppe on Mill Street is not liable for wood that comes out of the kiln bent or cracked. If wood comes out of the kiln bent to the point of being unusable then we will refund your money completely or offer you a different slab of equal value. Once the slab leaves the property no refund will be offered.
The Wood Shoppe on Mill Street takes all precautions when drying wood including strapping all wood down tight and re tightening every few days, stacking and stickering wood properly to allow for proper air flow, drying slow to start and increase wood temperature as the moisture content in the wood decreases, condition the wood at the end of the drying cycle to allow the wood to relax and not be case hardened when completed, increase the temperature of the kiln to 160° for at least 36 hours to allow the core temperature to reach 133° which then sterilizes the wood of insects and finally test the stress in the wood using a stress test to make sure all stresses are out of the wood. If not complete we put back in to recondition the wood again. As a result of taking all these precautions some pieces could still come out case hardened. We cannot prevent case hardening of all slabs 100% of the time. The Wood Shoppe is not liable for a slab that comes out case hardened if a customer planes it down to far right away and then it bends and there is not enough thickness left in the wood to work with. We suggest skip planing (small even amount taken off each side of the slab). We advise all customers after they pick up their slabs to bring them to their workshop or house where they will be finishing them.
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Steps to Acclimate Live Edge Wood After Kiln Drying
Acclimating live edge wood properly after kiln drying is crucial to ensure stability and prevent issues like warping, cracking, or uneven moisture content. Here's a detailed step-by-step guide:
Step 1: Choose the Acclimation Space
• Environment Selection: Place the wood in the same environment where it will ultimately be used. For example:
• Indoor wood projects: acclimate in a climate-controlled room.
• Outdoor wood projects: acclimate in a covered, well-ventilated outdoor area.
• Ensure the space has consistent temperature and humidity levels. Avoid areas with drastic changes, like garages or basements prone to humidity fluctuations.
Step 2: Prepare the Wood
• Inspect the Slabs: Check for existing cracks, checks, or damage. Seal the ends with a product like Anchorseal if this wasn't done before kiln drying to prevent end-checking.
• Clean the Wood: Remove sawdust or debris that could trap moisture or block airflow.
Step 3: Sticker and Stack the Wood
• Sticker Placement:
• Place stickers (thin, dry wooden strips) between each slab to allow even air circulation.
• Ensure the stickers are of uniform thickness and are spaced every 12-16 inches along the length of the slab.
• Align Stickers:
• Align stickers vertically to prevent uneven pressure or bending.
• Weight the Stack:
• Place a weighted material (like cinder blocks) on top of the stack to reduce the risk of warping during acclimation.
Step 4: Monitor Moisture Content
• Use a moisture meter to measure the moisture content (MC) of the slabs.
• Take measurements at multiple points on each slab, especially near the edges and the center.
• Check the equilibrium moisture content (EMC) of the environment and ensure the slabs’ MC gradually adjusts to match (usually 6-9% for indoor use).
Step 5: Control the Environment
• Temperature: Maintain a steady temperature, ideally around 65-75°F (18-24°C) for indoor projects.
• Humidity: Keep relative humidity (RH) between 30-50% for indoor spaces. Use a hygrometer to monitor RH.
• If RH is too high or low, consider using a dehumidifier or humidifier to stabilize conditions.
Step 6: Inspect Regularly
• Check the wood daily or every few days for:
• Warping or Cupping: Ensure the slabs remain flat in the stack.
• Cracking or Checking: Inspect the ends and surfaces for new cracks forming due to uneven moisture loss.
• Moisture Content Changes: Ensure the MC is gradually stabilizing toward the EMC.
• Sticker Alignment: Confirm stickers are still properly placed to prevent uneven drying.
Step 7: Acclimation Time
• Allow skinnier slabs (under 1 inch) to acclimate for 1-3 weeks, and thicker slabs (over 1 inch) depending on their thickness, density, and the environment up to 6 weeks or more.
What to Monitor During Acclimation
• Moisture Content (MC):
• Use a pin or pinless moisture meter to regularly check the MC of each slab.
• Target a final MC of 6-9% for indoor use.
• Watch for uneven MC levels between the center and edges of the slab.
• Warping/Cupping:
• Monitor the slabs for any signs of distortion, especially in the first week.
• Warping often results from uneven moisture distribution.
• Cracking/Checking:
• Look for cracks forming along the ends or surface of the wood.
• Apply additional end sealer if needed to slow moisture loss from the ends.
• Relative Humidity (RH):
• Use a hygrometer to ensure the RH of the environment stays consistent.
• Adjust the space’s RH with a humidifier or dehumidifier as necessary.
• Airflow:
• Ensure there is enough airflow around the stack but avoid direct exposure to fans or vents, which can cause uneven drying.
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Tips for Success
• Patience: Don't rush the process. Even perfectly kiln-dried wood needs time to adjust to its final environment.
• Use a Quality Moisture Meter: Invest in a reliable meter to track moisture content accurately.
• Proper Weighting: If warping is a concern, ensure the stack is properly weighted.
By following these steps and monitoring the key factors, you'll ensure your live edge wood acclimates properly, resulting in stable, high-quality material for your projects.
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Deposits
Any deposits for purchasing wood, kiln drying, milling service, log removal, and any other services or products are nonrefundable. 50% nonrefundable deposits are to be paid for any of the above mentioned products and services that are not paid in full. Remaining amount is due at the completion of the job or service.